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WGJORDAN3
Junior Boarder
Posts:189

Re: Any Surfers out there??

#77731 2 years, 10 months ago
Yea, not knowing how to duck dive and getting my ass kicked by the waves and all, it took me like an hour to paddle out. Soon as I made it, and I'm catching my breath, feeling good, theres this fucking shark's tail fin, not a dolphin's, a shark's, all splashing and shit, maybe 15ft. away from us, I look to my right, and my buddy has already split, I'm all trippin out, trying to paddle in. Finally made back in and decided to stay on land. Besides all the marine life in the ocean, surfing is tough, much respect.
"TAKE MY ADVICE, YOU'D BE BETTER OFF DEAD."
fourwnds
Senior Boarder
Posts:422

Re: Any Surfers out there??

#78430 2 years, 10 months ago
actually it is a kind of rolling motion. As the wave spins you punch/spin out the back. I know that probably doesn't make sense sorry. hard to describe exactly. I'm really surprised there aren't that many surfers here or maybe they just don't give a shit. Surfing can be a pretty one on one, almost selfish pursuit. Come to think of it I pretty much 90% of the time go to surf alone but I usually end up shooting the shit with some other soul to pass the time between sets at least when the crowds not too frothy. There was just a great white sighting here in town, circled twice around some guy and split. Hey that was entertaining Iraqistatefair, I knew I smelled bullsht! there. Did Jerry ever quit Fire, D.S. I knew.
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